Black Widow

Black Widow

This steep ice route forms in the overhanging amphitheater at the top of the couloir on the right side of the face. Allegedly. Unfortunately, I’ve never seen it, and I’m suspicious rockfall may have altered the drainage enough to change the way the route forms. In recent years some thin, x-rated smears and daggers have occasionally formed at the top of the couloir and above Davis Ramp, but these don’t quite look like the original route. In old photos Black Widow touches down at the top of the couloir right where Davis Ramp splits out left. Steep thin ice near the top of the couloir that doesn’t touch down in the same location as the old Black Widow photos.

Overview:

This steep ice route forms in the overhanging amphitheater at the top of the couloir on the right side of the face. Allegedly. Unfortunately, I’ve never seen it, and I’m suspicious rockfall may have altered the drainage enough to change the way the route forms. In recent years some thin, x-rated smears and daggers have occasionally formed at the top of the couloir and above Davis Ramp, but these don’t quite look like the original route. In old photos Black Widow touches down at the top of the couloir right where Davis Ramp splits out left.

Stats

WI5- A2. According to Wayne he “took” on a “bad directional piton” to get higher in one place, leading to the A2 rating. Two pitches of ice from the top of the couloir to the summit snowfield. Only a single known ascent.

Description

Photo #1: Steep thin ice near the top of the couloir that doesn’t touch down in the same location as the old Black Widow photos.

Ascend the couloir on the right side of the face all the way to the top (as described for Davis Ramp). Then climb the steep ice if it’s there!