Originally reported as an FA, the author (Adrien Costa) recently learned that this line was already done back in 2016 by Cliff Agocs and Brandon Seymore, but it is likely that the line was done far before them as well. Such is often the case on Mt. Hood with its long history of climbing. Regardless, this is a rad line and if anything the following trip report should inspire others to take the road less travelled on Mt. Hood.
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The line [we took parallels] the existing Ravine line. I’d spotted this line on my first trip up the Eliot Headwall this year, jaw-dropped at the amount of ice all over. The dark rock band above the ice looked menacing yet alluring. This seemed almost as obvious a line as the Ravine to me; one which points directly up in line with the initial starting ice flow. The line climbs the "Potential" between D and E in this photo: http://www.portlandrockclimbs.com/mt-hood-rock-climbs/eliot-headwall.htm
I had recruited a friend to join me on this objective, but, after a long traversing pitch on bullet hard ice above the gaping bergschrund, he decided he didn’t want to continue and we climbed the established Center Cirque Direct, which was still in incredibly good shape, but I digress.
I was lucky to link up with Matt @zaworotiuk who had interest in this line and in the Pencil. Matt's been climbing a ton of rad routes on Hood this season and I was stoked and confident in heading up with him.
We met up at Timberline and headed out promptly into heavy winds and a piercing cold. Nearing the DK we entered the cloud. We forged on, trusting the signs of sunshine ahead, taking our time, but it was a harsh re-run of winter in May.
We eventually dropped onto the glacier to the base of the Pencil. Eyeing it, it seemed very thin, very mixed, and hard to protect. We kind of regret not going for it but the wind and cold definitely made it more intimidating. I think it’d still go now, it would just be a trip. Anyways, I digress again.
Traversing the upper Eliot. [Photo] Matt Zavortink
Matt near the base of the Pencil. [Photo] Adrien Costa
Deciding against it we hugged the left side of the glacier to avoid cracks and reach the base of our route.
Pitch one started with a nice WI3 flow that kicks back and weaves its way through a rock couloir with occasional bulges higher, 50m.
Myself on P1. [Photo] Matt Zavortink
Matt wrapping up P1. [Photo] Adrien Costa
Pitch two is steep snow or easy ice to a pretty short, but pretty steep pillar, WI3+/4, 45m.
Matt headed off towards the pillar center of photo. [Photo] Adrien Costa
Pitch three starts on easy ice to steepening mixed terrain to a 40-foot mixed crux, hooking chossy cobbles and ice blobs with a solid thin crack on the big chockstone for pro. I was also able to drill in a 10cm stubby in an ice blob. Some pictures I've seen show more ice in this section, so in fatter (hard to believe) conditions it may be a thin ice pillar. Felt about M4+. Easy ice/ steep snow straight up above to easier terrain shared with the North Face. 60m.
Myself in the crux. [Photo] Matt Zavortink
Matt topping out the crux with Cathedral Spire below. [Photo] Adrien Costa
After topping out directly onto the summit, we sat and enjoyed the first warmth we'd had all day. Matt and I, having been sneaked out of the Pencil, were hungry for more, so he showed me the Right Cirque variation on the Eliot Headwall which we simuled in two blocks. Reaching the summit ridge, it was HOT, and we made our tired, happy way down the slushy south side to be once again greeted by the viciously cold wind as we hit the parking lot.
Back up the headwall. [Photo] Adrien Costa
All the action this area has seen this year has been inspiring and I can't wait to hear of more!
Gear Notes:
Brought a lot, used cams 0.2-0.5 & lots of 10-13cm screws
Approach Notes:
South side
Brought a lot, used cams 0.2-0.5 & lots of 10-13cm screws
Approach Notes:
South side
